Black Forest gateau – now thankfully hard to find except in Iceland freezer stores – the absurdly pretentious chicken chasseur and the once-ubiquitous prawn cocktail because, well, in the Noughties, it is simply naff.

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Shame then that 114 The Arch hasn't consigned that other 'classic', Lamb Henry, to cooking history, too.

According to a quick internet search, Lamb Henry can be anything from a minted casserole to a slow-roasted shoulder.

At 114 The Arch, it is neither. Instead we are served up a hulking piece of meat which appeared to be a braised rack of lamb.

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Nothing necessarily wrong in that, but it came topped with a giant swathe of fat and a teetering piece of bone. Yes, that's right, a piece of bone. As a garnish.

What to do with it? You can hardly brush it aside like an errant piece of salad. One of our dining partners eventually opted to abandon it in a tray of half-eaten vegetables – which wasn't quite the table centrepiece I'd had in mind, but, in the circumstances, entirely forgivable.

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By the time the dish was finished it looked like we'd had the Tasmanian Devil to tea.

And the awkwardness of the Lamb Henry is the reason why it, too, should be condemned cuisine.

Its presence on the menu at 114 is a mystery, but indicative of the establishment as a whole. Some things are very, very good and well thought-out, while others just miss the mark.
114 The Arch can be found tucked away at the bottom of Richardshaw Lane.

The website says Pudsey but it's definitely Stanningley, just before the well-known railway arch from which it presumably takes its name.

It is sandwiched by terraced houses and forlorn-looking shops. The restaurant itself is smart but unassuming.

Inside, it's all wooden floors and furniture with chic patterned wallpaper. It's just before Christmas when we roll up and the decorations are tasteful and unobtrusive.

The Sunday lunch menu is tremendous value at £12.50 for two courses or £15 for three. Wines are good value too – it's often all too tempting for restaurants offering a bargain meal to recoup their cash on the drinks.

We're given plenty of time by a friendly member of staff to read the menu, which aside from the aforementioned Henry, includes another eight mains and seven starters.

When a different waitress arrives, though, to take our order, she is surly and unhelpful. When a dining companion asked of the Lamb Henry "is it like a lamb shank?" she got the answer "it's a Henry". No more details were forthcoming. A little more information would, perhaps, have led us to avoid said dish.

For starters, we ordered the cream of mushroom soup, the Yorkshire pudding with onion gravy, the fillet steak and stilton pancake and the haddock and spinach fishcake. Other choices included a Yorkshire cranberry and pork sausage, pan fried lamb's liver and a filo vegetable parcel. The haddock fishcake was almost immediately declared the winner. It was packed with fresh-flaked fish and was served atop a caper and dill mayonnaise that complimented it perfectly.

The Yorkshire pudding was good, the soup was described as "delicious" and the pancake was fine, though probably, in truth, a little heavy for a starter. It was surprisingly packed with fillet steak, though.

Next up mains. Two of us went for the traditional roast beef with Yorkshire pudding and the other two the soon-to-be much-maligned Lamb Henry. Other options included a grilled sirloin, confit of duck leg; grilled cod and pan-fried pork chop.

Enough has been said about the lamb. The beef, on the other hand, was something of a success.

It was tender, though not quite melt-in-the-mouth, and it was served with a plethora of roast potatoes and fresh veg. Even when one difficult member of the party wanted cauliflower without cheese, a new batch came out quickly.

The desserts were of a pretty high standard. We plumped for a creme brulee, ice cream and Christmas pudding. None was truly remarkable but all were good, which for an extra £2.50 on the bill is as much as you can ask for.

Speaking of the bill, that's another thing 114 really must put more thought into.

Ours was wrong on two counts. Firstly the restaurant had deducted a £25 deposit, which we had not paid. Then they only seemed to want to charge us for two courses not the three we had consumed. It's undoubtedly a nice festive gesture, but as popular as a restaurant will be that under-charges its diners, it will also be, before long, a closed one.

Eventually we settled on a bill of just over £77, which, including a couple of glasses of white wine, a couple of festive sherries and a martini, should not be sniffed at.

All in all 114 The Arch is definitely heading in the right direction. There are just a few areas to which it needs to pay closer attention.
But I still have one bone of contention … that terrible Lamb Henry.